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0 The Cartier Tank: An Icon Reborn
Few watches have such timeless appeal as the Cartier Tank. The design is over a century old, yet remains one of the most recognizable icons in the watch world to this day. You can find all the information about the history of the Cartier Tank and all its variations in our previous blog post: Cartier Tank Pt. 1: The Beginning
Within this rich history, the Must de Cartier Tank holds a special place—it is a fresh, affordable, and often colorful take on the classic Tank Louis.
The Origins of the Must Collection
Until the 1970s, Cartier produced only very limited editions of the Tank. These models often featured handcrafted precious metal cases housing EWC (European Watch & Clock Co.) movements. Today, these are rare collector’s items that can cost tens of thousands of euros.
In the 1970s, Cartier faced changing trends in luxury consumption and the rise of quartz watches. To appeal to a younger and broader audience, “La Maison” launched theMust de Cartier line in 1977: luxury accessories and watches that retained the classic and recognizable Cartier designs, but were more affordable and accessible to a wider audience.
Differences from the Tank Louis
The Must de Cartier line was not a replacement for the classic precious metal Tank Louis, but an addition to the collection. They stood side by side in Cartier boutiques. So what are the differences?
As mentioned, the Must de Cartier Tank was intended to be a more accessible alternative, and the main way Cartier achieved this goal was by using vermeil cases instead of gold and platinum cases: solid silver with a thick layer of gold. In addition, quartz or hand-wound movements from ETA were used for the timepieces. This kept the watches thin and elegant, and the collection quickly became popular.
It wasn't just the case and movement that changed. Cartier also tackled the classic dial with Roman numerals, which had been featured in every Cartier Tank for half a century. This led to the creation of models with black dials (both with and without Roman numerals), as well as blue, red, and lemon yellow dials without Roman numerals, and many other variations. This playful character appealed to a younger clientele.
The watches were available for over 20 years in three main sizes. The 'XL' was only added towards the end of production and was the only one with a date function and second hand. It is by far the rarest size, but we have one!
Why vintage is still the way to go
Cartier discontinued the entire Must collection at the beginning of this century. However, in 2021, Cartier re-released the Tank Must—a comeback that was an instant success. The new models are clearly inspired by the aesthetics of the vintage Must de Cartier line. Cartier launched the model line with dials in burgundy, blue, and green, among other colors. However, there is one very important difference!
The modern models are produced in a steel case and no longer in the popular gold-colored Vermeil cases. The only way to get your hands on an affordable gold-colored Cartier Tank is still the vintage Must de Cartier line! That is why we have seen an increase in demand for vintage models since the launch of the modern Must de Cartier line.
Conclusion
The Cartier Tank remains elegant and timeless. The collection builds on Cartier’s most iconic design and offers something for everyone: gold or silver tones, various (unisex) sizes, and an endless array of dial variations. And all at a more accessible price point. So take a look at our collection today to find the one that suits you best!
Apr 9