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Cartier Tank pt. 1: The beginning

Feb. 26, 2025

After Rolex, Cartier is by far the most loved and sold brand. Worldwide, the brand currently ranks second in the watch world when it comes to sales figures. Rolex may have the crown as its logo, but Cartier is nicknamed 'The jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers'. No model has contributed as much to the recognition of the prestigious brand as the Cartier Tank. In this blog, we look at the original design of the Tank Normale and the development of its most iconic variant, the Tank Louis Cartier.

Tank Normal

Introduced in 1917, the Cartier Tank Normale is the first watch in Cartier's famous Tank line. The design was inspired by the military tanks used during World War I. The wide oblong case was shaped after the tracks of these tanks. The watch was designed by Louis Cartier, grandson of the brand's founder Louis-Francois Cartier. The strong rectangular lines create a tough look, while the modest size and classic Cartier dial with roman numerals actually add a lot of charm. Compared to the Tank Louis, the center of the case (between the dial and the strap attachment) is wider and more present. This gives it a more angular and tough character.

De Tank Normale is in meerdere maatvoeringen uitgebracht en een relatief zeldzaam horloge. Dat komt omdat de totale horlogeproductie van het merk de eerste decennia beperkt was tot enkele tientallen of honderden per jaar. Het productieproces van Cartier was authentiek en vereiste meer handwerk dan bij veel andere merken. Pas een halve eeuw na de introductie van Normale, in de jaren ’70, nam de productie van Cartier fors toe. De Tank Normale verdween toen een tijd uit beeld en is in 2023 opnieuw in de catalogus opgenomen als een (snel uitverkochte) limited edition.

Tank Louis 

Both the Tank Normal and the Louis (named after its designer) have proven to be icons of watch design. The Tank model has seen many variations over the years, but the Louis edition is considered the "original" and the most prestigious design. It is a favorite of celebrities like Andy Warhol and Frank Sinatra, from fashion icons like Calvin Klein and Yves Saint Lauren to political leaders and heads of state like Lady Diana and our own Queen Maxima. Despite being over 100 years old, the design remains a symbol of sophistication and style today.

The Tank Louis has a less angular cabinet. In particular, the "tracks" of the case are made completely smooth and round. This elegance brings calmness to the design and ensures that both women and men can wear the watch in any situation. The watch feels just as at home with a gala dress as it does with a winter pullover.

De Tank Louis is door de jaren heen in talloze variaties uitgebracht, zowel met quartz- als handmatige uurwerken en zelfs een jumbo-versie met automaat! De Tank Louis is dan ook minder zeldzaam dan de Normale. Het is in al die decennia namelijk niet weg te denken geweest uit de Cartier boutiques. Dit doet natuurlijk niets af aan de charme van het model. Het is volgens vele het meest geslaagde en iconische horlogedesign ooit. Bekijk onze collectie Tank Louis horloges hier.

The Tank bloodline

The Tank Normale and Louis are not the only ones in the family line. Cartier is rightfully the master of jewelry and watch design. Over the years, for example, the brand has managed to create as many as 20 different case shapes based on the Tank, including the:

In addition to the different case shapes, there are multiple sizes of each model, editions with special dials, cases set with precious stones, etc. etc.
So there is always a Cartier Tank that suits you! And we always offer the best choice in vintage Cartier Tanks. Take a quick look here for our current stock of Cartier watches.

Also, be sure to keep an eye on our blog, as there is much more to discover about the Cartier Tank collection in part 2 of this series!

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