0 
0 After Rolex, Cartier is by far the most loved and sold brand. Worldwide, the brand currently ranks second in the watch world when it comes to sales figures. Rolex may have the crown as its logo, but Cartier is nicknamed 'The jeweller of kings and the king of jewellers'. No model has contributed as much to the recognition of the prestigious brand as the Cartier Tank. In this blog, we look at the original design of the Tank Normale and the development of its most iconic variant, the Tank Louis Cartier.
Tank Normal
Introduced in 1917, the Cartier Tank Normale is the first watch in Cartier's famous Tank line. The design was inspired by the military tanks used during World War I. The wide oblong case was shaped after the tracks of these tanks. The watch was designed by Louis Cartier, grandson of the brand's founder Louis-Francois Cartier. The strong rectangular lines create a tough look, while the modest size and classic Cartier dial with roman numerals actually add a lot of charm. Compared to the Tank Louis, the center of the case (between the dial and the strap attachment) is wider and more present. This gives it a more angular and tough character.
Released in several sizes, the Tank Normale is a relatively rare watch. This is because the brand's total watch production was limited to a few dozen or hundreds per year for the first few decades. Cartier's manufacturing process was authentic and required more handwork than many other brands. Only half a century after the introduction of Normale, in the 1970s, did Cartier's production increase substantially. The Tank Normale then disappeared from view for a time and was reintroduced to the catalog as a (quickly sold out) limited edition in 2023. We do still have two beautiful vintage examples available! Check them out here and here.
Tank Louis
Both the Tank Normal and the Louis (named after its designer) have established themselves as icons of watch design. The Tank model has seen many variations over the years, but the Louis edition is considered the "original" and the most prestigious design. It is a favorite of celebrities like Andy Warhol and Frank Sinatra, from fashion icons like Calvin Klein and Yves Saint Lauren to political leaders and heads of state like Lady Diana and our own Queen Maxima. Despite being over 100 years old, the design remains a symbol of sophistication and style today.
The Tank Louis has a less angular cabinet. In particular, the "tracks" of the case are made completely smooth and round. This elegance brings calmness to the design and ensures that both women and men can wear the watch in any situation. The watch feels just as at home with a gala dress as it does with a winter pullover.
The Tank Louis has been released in numerous variations over the years, both with quartz and manual movements and even a jumbo version with automatic! The Tank Louis is therefore less rare than the Normal. In fact, it has not been absent from Cartier boutiques in all these decades. This, of course, does not diminish the charm of the model. According to many, it is the most successful and iconic watch design ever.
The Tank bloodline
The Tank Normale and Louis are not the only ones in the family line. Cartier is rightfully the master of jewelry and watch design. Over the years, for example, the brand has managed to create as many as 20 different case shapes based on the Tank, including the:
- Tank Arrondie
- Tank a guichet
- Tank a fish
- Tank Americaine
- Tank Anglaise
- Tank Assymetrique
- Tank Allongee
- Tank Basculante
- Tank Libre Crash (no not that Crash)
- Tank Libre Enlacé
- Tank Chinoise
- Tank Cintree
- Tank Divan
- Tank Follé
- Tank Francaise
- Tank Lingot
- Tank Lanieres
- Tankissime
- Tank Obus and Obus Savonnette
- Tank MC (Manufacture Cartier)
- Tank Must de Cartier
- Tank Solo
In addition to the different case shapes, there are multiple sizes of each model, editions with special dials, cases set with precious stones, etc. etc.
So there is always a Cartier Tank that suits you! And we always offer the best choice in vintage Cartier Tanks. Take a quick look here for our current stock of Cartier watches.
Also, be sure to keep an eye on our blog, as there is much more to discover about the Cartier Tank collection in part 2 of this series!
Dec 07